5/2/2024 0 Comments Advance dial timing light![]() I tried flipping the pickup, putting it on number 4, which did the same but at BDC.Īny thoughts? i can't see how i can change the settings in the gun.Īm i doing something wrong? should i dial in 10 degrees and see what it gives me?ĭoes this mean i'm 4 degrees off, or 7 or?Īlso can i just that in TunerStudio so my maps read correct? I also dialed in advance on the the gun until i got TDC on the case centre line and i had to dial in 7 degrees to get this (if that means anything) and hard to read, i saw TDC,10,20,30 in random orders and maybe other numbers? changing every strobe.īut at idle it was steady 14. The timing would be steady at what i reckon is 14 degrees(with the gun set to ZERO), but when i brought the revs up to about 2K rpm and above the timing was all over the place on the light. I disconnected the SAW and put on my snap on timing light, with a digi read out on the back, hooked it up to number 1 lead.įor a start the RPM reading on the light is twice what the gauge and engine are doing. ![]() So i wanted to check that my MS was seeing what the engine was doing. Mine is directional.Running MS1 2.2 EXTRA on my 2110, made my own trigger from drilling the flywheel, when i first fitted it, i got pinging under load so backed the timing off to 22 degrees max and no more pinging (maybe i could creep up a degree or two, i was on 26 WITH pining. ![]() Only a timing light with an inductive pickup should be used with electronic ignitions. It very simple to drill a small pit in the flywheel rim to use as a new timing mark for alternate timings. A timing light is handy on a points bike to directly observe the action of the points and advance, just point it at them I have a separate tach/dwell I take to tech days. I got lucky the first time I set it and have never used the adjustments although they are accessible from outside the can with it on the bike.įor a points ignition a static light (doubles as a trouble light on the road) and a tach dwell meter are used. The setup is pretty much set it and forget it. I tune it like my old Boyer, at full advance. The '83 engine is dual plugged and has a modified stock beancan lighter weights and adjustable weight stops. Truth is if I had studied the light before starting I may have simply discovered that my bike was already perfectly timed. ![]() It didn’t dawn on me that the knob would turn below zero I just thought the scale was misplaced due to it being an HF item. Virtually dead-on, I did a very slight tweak with the magnet location and was done. I turned the dial so the line was aligned with the “0” on the scale and tried to time the bike. I noticed that the adjustment knob was turned all the way down but the scale “0” didn’t directly line up with the line. Finally, I set the Dyna III back to the base settings and looked at my HF timing light. Of course the more I messed with it the worse the bike would run. Rethought my process and realized I had installed it properly so started messing with the advance magnets on the Dyna III. A month earlier, I had just installed a new lightened flywheel and started worrying that I’d done something wrong with the install. Hmmm, but timing’s way off at full advance. I thought “Let’s check out my timing with the new light.”. Bike (R75/5 single plugged) was running fine but I had the front cover off for something (forget what) and a guy in the AirList posed a question about double image at full advance on his /5 and was going to fit a Dyna III. I bought a HF one that was adjustable because it was in stock and low cost. For years I used an older Craftsman light that worked just fine until suddenly it didn’t. Can’t give you a specific model suggestion but I can share a relatively recent experience with a timing light.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |